Is there a lot of snow in the Greater Poland region? Not really! Just when it falls, you better put your clothes on and run outside to make a snowman and play, because the next morning it may turn into grey muddy pulp. That’s how it has been in central Poland for years, so we wanted to feel the winter a little and we went to Rudawy Janowickie and the Karkonosze Mountains.
See at the map where we have been.
Rudawy Landscape Park is situated at foot of the Karkonosze Mountains and is probably mostly associated with climbers. In spring and summer and even some warm autumn days lovers of rock climbing gather beneath the rocks and camp in nearby campsites. Right here her climbing life-adventure started Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943 – 1992) an outstanding Polish climber; the first European woman and first Polish climber at the highest peak, Mount Everest. Among her successes is the first female on K2, or the first winter climb on the northern wall of Matterhorn in a female group. Her life and passion are really inspiring and the memory of her seems to be alive in the hearts of Polish climbers in Rudawy.
We have never had a chance to get involved into rock climbing, what doesn’t mean that we are not interested or intrigued by it. In our family and among our friends we have many friends who jump at the rocky walls as mountain goats and they helped us to understand the ins and outs of climbing. Our first routes were done with the rope assurance, maybe something more difficult this year?
In the meantime we have focused on visiting places from different perspective and in different, winter aura.
THE VALLEY OF PALACES AND GARDENS
Bobrów, is one of the towns that belongs to the Valley of Palaces and Gardens, the area between Jelenia Góra Valley, the Karkonosze Mountains, Rudawy Janowickie and Kaczawy Mountains.
As the name suggests the area includes palaces, castles and gardens. In mentioned Bobrów, we had a starting point for our walking trips. Every day were passing Bobrów Castle that is in private hands now and has been under construction for years and we also were walking by renewed Wojanów Castle.
When it comes to visiting the valley places, we have chosen the ruins of Bolczów Castle, situated on the crossroad of trails in Rudawy Landscape Park. From the 17th century this castle has been turned into ruins after the fire when wooden parts and partly brick walls were destroyed. Natural rock formation was used to form part of the outer walls. Well preserved is the entrance gate with barbican, most walls with windows (shooting holes), cistern – brick tank for water, elements of a house and rock stairs. In the surrounding and inside the castle, there are a lot of beech trees, some of them being natural monuments.
What are you looking for at our holes – miedzianka
The story of Miedzianka we learned while reading a book “Miedzianka. Historia znikania” written by Filip Springer, discerning reportage about inhabitants and stormy town history situated on rich uranium deposits. Miedzianka is adjacent to Janowice Wielkie, Mniszkowo, Ciechanowice and probably if not the published book, not many would know facts and anecdotes about the town that was supposed to be forgotten. When we walked by the side of the road, a local lady approached us asking what were we looking for at the holes of Miedzianka. Well, we were interested where was the evangelical church and cementary, ruined at that time or the remaining walls of old brewery, but we felt that people there are somehow tired of their town ‘fame’. Then she added that she was fed up of that place, that she had lived there ever since. Well, before, people lived there quietly (maybe in hard conditions but still with their own rhythm), unless in 2011 the book was published and the brewery was opened. Suddenly the tourists started asking, searching and the inhabitants felt like the Indians in the sanctuary. This comparison was used by our host from Bobrów and it seems that he made it to the point. Whatever comparisons we may use and how we look at today’s picture of Miedzianka, the history of this place is definitely very interesting. The time is passing quickly, it’s worth anyway to recall and remember the past days. What is also worth doing is definitely visiting the brewery and trying their specialities. Our hearts were stolen by ‘Cycuch Janowicki’ and wheat beer ‘Mniszek’. The best ones!
starost’s wife’s rocks
There are a lot of viewing spots, beautiful places in Rudawy, for instance viewpoints at Sokoliki Mountain and Krzyżna Góra Mountain at which we spent the New Year’s Eve or Husyckie Rocks. This time we have decided to stay for a while in Starost’s Wife’s Rocks, at least for that long to warm up our dinner and to rest after few hours walk and take some pictures. Mission was completed, our bigos for dinner was the best one, we have ‘charged’ our batteries and the pictures are wonderful (of course…).
There is a story linked to Starost’s Wife’s Rocks that its traces can still be found at one of the rocks. Mounting of copper letters is visible, even the writing is readable, it says Mariannenfels, for the name of princess Maria Anna who lived in nearby Karpniki Palace. That was a realisation of ‘fashionable’ at that time romantic gardens, with real elements of nature included, the rocks became part of the garden. Under the letters there used to be an iron lion… Unfortunately, the letters were stolen and the lion was pushed down the rocks and moved to the dam of Złotnickie Lake. I’ve read that there is an attempt to bring the lion back to its original place. The localisation of historical garden wasn’t random obviously. Unusual rock formation, labyrinths between the walls, noble trees and panoramic views favour romantic dreaming.
Karkonosze national park
Higher parts of the mountains and I mean here trails going to Łabski Szczyt peak (1471 m) were covered in thick snow. The wind was strong and snow from the top was covered with ice. Scenery was wonderful and conditions for typical bum slide, right after falling down, just perfect. We had time only for a one-day walk from Szklarka Waterfall, via Łabski Szczyt hostel, Hala Szrenicka, to Kamieńczyk Waterfall, but still we have tasted the desired, white winter.